|

They trod swiftly and softly through the forest not
disturbing the pine laden paths. They were now in their favorite summer
hunting grounds where the game was plentiful and their lodges nestled in the
ponderosa and lodgepole pine. The wind chimed through the douglas fir and
aspen. At the end of the warm days when the crisp air of autumn blew the
aspen leaves and the forest became gold and red, the Ute Indian tribe would
pack up their lodges and start their journey to the low country along the
Yampa River where the game would migrate and settle in during the long
winter months.
From
the 14th century until they were "relocated" onto reservations, the Ute
tribes, a part of the Shoshone family, hunted and gathered, procured horses
from the Spanish of the southwest and protected and governed their lands of
Northwestern Colorado.
The Cross Mountain Ranch,
where the Utes summered, is located in the Upper Country at an elevation of
8,000 feet. There are 30,700 deeded acres in Routt and Rio Blanco counties,
near the township of Hayden,
Colorado. The Low Country
consists of 27,700 deeded acres
west
of the town of Maybell, Colorado in Moffat
County at an elevation of between 5,500 and 7,500
feet. It was here that the Utes wintered due to the more mild weather and
the vast herds of elk, antelope and deer.
The Upper Country
and the Lower Country are non contiguous parcels
of property separated by fifty miles but surrounded by an assortment of
federal, state, private leases and permits which total approximately 341,600
acres. Thus, the deeded and leased parcels total approximately 400,000
acres.
From the early days of the wandering Utes to the present ownership of Cross Mountain Ranch,
this area of Colorado has been steeped in history,
legend and lore, all of which testified to the romance and wildness of the
early settlement of this part of the West.
For
four centuries, from the 14th to the 18th, the Utes lived relatively
undisturbed lives, occasionally defending their hunting grounds from
incursions by the Arapahoe, Sioux and Cheyenne. When the white man did
venture in, they came as explorers, mountain men and fur trappers and the
Utes assisted them. Early settlers found the Indians peaceful and friendly.
They bartered for sugar, biscuits and medical help in exchange for meat,
moccasins and pelts. Only when gold seekers began to harass and encroach on
Indian territories in the vicinity of Steamboat Springs in the mid-1800’s
did the Indians begin to show signs of hostility.
But the turning point in the history of Northwestern Colorado and the
eventual settlement of this country by the whites was the Meeker Massacre.
Nathan Cook Meeker was a Greenwich Village poet
and agricultural editor of Horace Greeley’s (“Go West, Young
Man”) Tribune. He was appointed Indian agent for
the White River Agency and
attempted to convert the Utes from hunters to farmers. He
was unyielding in his fervor
and told the Utes to plow and thresh their favorite
gaming and racing fields. The result was a massacre of Meeker and all his
employees and an ambush of Colonel Thornburgh’s U.S. Calvary detachment at
Milk Creek on September 29, 1879. From that moment on, the fate of the Utes
was sealed and the opening of Northwestern Colorado to homesteading was an
eventuality.

The site of the Milk Creek Massacre is approximately twelve miles from
the Upper
Country parcel of Cross Mountain Ranch, as the crow flies. It was determined
that a renegade band of Utes, numbering about
twelve, had actually committed the crimes for which they stood accused. The
peace-loving Chief Ouray of the Utes negotiated with the Army officers over
the fate of his braves and he (Chief Ouray) insisted that they be tried in
Washington. Ten braves did go to Washington, but nothing of consequence
happened to them. Instead there was a final ratification of a Ute treaty
whereby the Utes were divided; half went to a reservation in southern
Colorado and half to the Unitah reservation in Utah.
In 1882, the Northwestern territories of Colorado were opened to
homesteaders and a steady but small stream of pioneers came to this area and
cleared land and erected log cabins on their 160 acres. The Upper
Country, which is now the Cross
mountain Ranch, was originally many small ranches and homesteads whose
patents date from 1900 to 1911 and later. Mr. Ralph Pitchforth began to buy
up these ranches and homesteads in the 1920’s. Later in the early 1950’s
under Mr. J Burton Tuttle, the ranch increased it’s holdings until it was
known as the Cross Mountain Ranch of both Upper Country and Lower Country.
Bogle Farms bought the Cross Mountain in 1963 and sold it to the most recent
buyer in 1991.
Mr. Ralph Pitchforth was the farsighted rancher who consolidated his
holdings in the Upper and Lower Country realizing that the richness of the
grasses in the Upper Country
would
feed his herds of sheep and cattle in the summer and the natural and
nutritious bluestem grasses of the Low Country would sustain his herds
through long and difficult winters without putting them “on the stack.”
The Boeddeker family, present owners of Cross Mountain
Ranches added another prime property to the ranch when they purchased the
Pyramid Ranch in 1993. The Pyramid Peak Guest Ranch is located in the Upper
Country (Rio Blanco County). Situated in a box canyon at the end of the east
fork of the Williams Fork River, this beautiful, pristine and remote ranch
sits at an elevation of 8,000 feet at the foot of Pyramid Peak (13,000 feet). Crossed with streams, nestled in forests
of pine and aspen, teeming with wildlife and surrounded by the Flat Top
Wilderness, the Pyramid Peak Guest Ranch offers solace and beauty to the
weary traveler.

At
the turn of the century, the Pyramid Peak Guest Ranch was a freight, mail
and way-station for travelers traversing the Williams
Fork and Ripple Creek Pass. Historically accessible only during the summer and fall due to heavy
snows, the PPG Ranch is now a perfect place to enjoy year-round winter and
summer sports.
Much has been said and written about the beauty of the Upper Country with
its pine, spruce and aspen forests, its rich game and rushing rivers, the
Williams Fork Valley and the Willow Creek area which is summer ranch
headquarters. But not to be outdone, lies the fertile and historic Cross
Mountain Ranch of the low country along the wide and beautiful Yampa River
which courses twenty-five miles through Cross Mountain Ranch with its white
water gorges and peaceful running course.

It was here that men such as Kit Carson, Colonel John Fremont, Major John
Wesley Powell and those intrepid explorers walked and rode, hunted and fished,
charted and mapped these lands. Through these Lower Country lands, Butch
Cassidy, the Sundance
Kid and his gang, the “Wild Bunch”,
rode and fled
from posses. Brown’s Park adjacent to the Cross Mountain
Ranch Low Country was the rendezvous of cattle rustlers and hardy early ranchers. The introduction of sheep from Wyoming
was met with stiff resistance in this area by cattlemen, many of whom had
the largest spreads in Northwest Colorado. Three of these ranches stand out
for their size and fame. They were the White Bear Land and Cattle, Co., the
Sevens and the Two Circle Bar.
Of these three, the White Bear Land and Cattle Co. and the Sevens are now
part of the holdings of the lower portion of Cross Mountain Ranch. These
ranches were very famous in their day for the number of cattle they ran and
the quality of wranglers and foreman who operated them.
The
“White Bears” were a consortium of eastern investors comprised of preachers,
college professors, and professionals who were basically ignorant of
ranch operations but
lured by the tales of the
west which were told to
them by a Denver promoter names James D. Husted. The origin of the name
White Bears is cloudy. Popular conjecture held that the Yampa River,
originally called the Bear River (because of the number of bears in the
vicinity), could have had significance in the naming. Mr. Husted’s holdings
consisted of a big ranch in Lily Park, so named because of the profusion of
beautiful sand lilies that bloomed in the spring. The Little Snake Joins the
Yampa at Lily Park. The White Bear’s holding were 5,000 acres. The company
adopted the brand the W Bar W.
“The White Bear operation in Lily Park was in itself a fascinating complex,
encompassing the construction of a huge wing dam in the Yampa at the point
where the river emerges from Cross
Mountain
Canyon gorge, the ditching and irrigation of more than two thousand acres of
land on the first bench above the river, the cultivation of alfalfa, grain
and root crops (some of which won prizes at the 1913 National Western Stock
Show in Denver) and running a considerable herd of cattle on the open range and growing hogs,
turkeys, chickens, geese and ducks for market.” (1)
The W Bar W spread bordered the Sevens along the Yampa and was strictly a
steer outfit. Each year 4,000 to 5,000 yearlings were bought in the
Southwest or Old Mexico and an
equal number of mature animals were trailed
to market at
Wolcott, a station on the Denver and Rio Grande railroad in the
Eagle River Valley. Eventually Mrs. N.N. Pierce’s nephew, Billy Wear, became
the third foreman of the Sevens following the ouster of George Watson, a
very capable cowman but unfortunately not related to the owner. Billy Wear
was a colorful foreman, handsome, hard-working and hard-drinking. There is a
story about Billy Wear and a cattle drive to Steamboat Springs which could
be a scene out of a John Huston western.
Billy
was approaching the town of Steamboat Springs with a herd of four to five
thousand head of hot, dirty and tired cattle on their way to the railhead at
Wolcott. He had been on the trail for several days when he was met at the
end of town by the constable who told him it was no longer permissible to
drive cattle down Main Street. The herd would have to bypass the town. To do
thus they would have to cross the Yampa twice and ride over mountainous
terrain. The town had recently installed brand new plank sidewalks on either
side of Main Street. The town fathers did not relish the idea of fresh cow manure
spattered on their brand new sidewalks.
Billy Wear languidly eyes the official, considered the ultimatum and said to
the constable, “So we can’t take our cattle through town anymore?” “That’s
right,“ the marshal said, “the town council won’t stand for it.”

Wear took a drag on his cigarette, squinted hard at the official then
flicked the butt in his face and raised his arm and motioned to his
outriders. A sweating, bawling, running head of six million pounds of beef
filled Main Street from curb to curb. Wild-eyed and hard-hoofed they roared
through the center of town on their way to Wolcott.
There are also stories of Tom Horn, the over-zealous lawman who ran down
outlaws only to be hanged himself for murdering a young black boy. Pat
Lynch, the Hermit of Pat’s Hole is buried at Lily Park. Pat was born in
Ireland, took to the sea at fourteen years of age, shipwrecked in Africa,
rescued by an English ship, went to India and found his way to America where
he joined the Navy. He fought in the Civil War and made his way to
Northwestern Colorado. He lived the life of a hermit in a canyon where the
Green River joins the Yampa. He stored jerky and bread all over the
mountains and was said to have tamed a mountain lion who he would call and
the lion would answer with a plaintive cry
and sometimes bring him a fresh
kill of deer. He lived his last three years at Lily Park
where he died and was buried at the age of ninety-eight.
At one time the Wells Fargo Co. and also the famous Cary Ranch owned the
Sevens. We cannot leave this area of Lily Park (site of the White Bear Land
and Cattle Co.) without mentioning the beautiful story of the Indian maiden
and the warrior she loved. There are three places
on Cross Mountain Ranch (in the Low Country) called Disappointment, Vale of
Tears and Happy Hollow. It seems there was an Indian maiden and a warrior
from different tribes, Piute and Shoshone. This couple was pledged to marry
on the annual hunting trip. This event was to take place at the lower end of
Lily Park at the foot of Blue Mountain. The warrior was to overtake his
maiden here but when he arrived, his sweetheart was gone so he
called
this place Disappointment. He then crossed to the south side hoping to find
her there but she was not to be found. He sat down and wept and called this
place Vale of Tears and he went on. He finally found her some miles up the
river and named this place Happy Hollow. These names are a part of Cross
Mountain Ranch.
Cross Mountain Ranch today is a diversified operation comprised of four
entities; agriculture, livestock, hunting/fishing and recreation. It is a
working cattle and sheep
ranch with significant haying lots, and offering world class hunting. The
recent survey of the Fish and Game Department counted herds of elk numbering
around 7,000 head. Fishing, hiking, backpacking, nature trails and white
water rafting are among the many recreational possibilities.
Guests
will lodge in the Upper Country at the historic Pyramid Peak Guest Ranch and
in the Lower Country at the historic Victorian Sevens Ranch. Between the two
unique locations and elevations (8,000 feet to 5,000 feet), guests will
enjoy all winter sports (snow mobiling and cross country skiing)
to fly fishing, horseback riding, white water rafting, and cattle drives in
the summer.
It is the intention of the owners to continue to operate Cross Mountain
Ranch as a sole entity of Upper and Lower Country parcels, headquartering
the ranch at the Willow Creek area in the Upper Country with winter
operations running concurrently out of the Lily Park area. The
owners are sensitive to the vast historical
influences of this special
property and plan to maintain and improve all
aspects of this unique
ranch.

Kitty Boeddeker, Owner
Cross Mountain Ranch
______________________________________________
(1) “Where the Old West Stayed
Young” by John Burroughs
|